Customer would need to test for adhesion and compatibility. Not recommended for specification work. Customers do not typically do this.
Some of Chemglaze products were re-named to meet their more common use in the Aerospace industry. We have a letter from marketing explaining this change.
None of our products are recommended for full exposure. A-Line products can withstand intermittent splashing to water or daily soak / dry cycles.
The catalyst will help cure the film under poor curing conditions- full cure time is still needed based on product type and conditions. Some Chemglaze products can be baked with catalyst to speed cure on assembly line type basis.
Yes. Use AP-134 adhesion promoter for glass type surfaces prior to topcoating.
Baking is not recommended until the product has been fully cured at room temperature. Best results are after normal cure and then baking with pans of water in an oven at 160 to 200°F for at least 8 hours. Baking will reduce outgassing.
Not recommended for aerospace application due to outgassing requirements. No data on compatibility. V-175 would be compatible with Aeroglaze A-line, but would not meet spec if A-170 is specified for space application.
No. Chemfilmed, anodized, or alodine treated surfaces should be primed with Aeroglaze epoxy primers.
Parts should not be wiped with any alcohol containing solvents until fully cured. Wash Primer should not be wiped with any solvent to avoid removing the primer.
We do not have a preferred list of applicators but do know that Boyd Coatings and Applied Coating Systems, Inc do this type of work.
Black, white, and clear. We do have P-line color additives to make other colors, i.e. red, blue, and yellow (can mix red, blue, and yellow to get other colors). The customer would need to add with catalyst with P-line color concentrates.
We do not know on most of these substrates since we haven’t tested for adhesion. Customer would need to test to confirm adhesion.
Cannot be done. Need to check your cert or contact the distributor.
If wash primer is used, make small cuts in the painted surface and apply solvent saturated cloths to soak into the primer. Continue until all paint is removed. If epoxy primer is used, some mechanical or abrasive method should be used. If substrate can handle aggressive solvents, methylene chloride may be a good choice. Some commercial removal agents may work and can be found online, but may not be suitable for sensitive substrates / applications. We do not have a written method for coating removal.
The Product Information sheet shows coverage for coatings based on gallons per square foot. Allow for overspray and odd shaped parts and amount of thinner needed.
It is best to wait for full cure, but parts can be handled lightly after 12 hours under proper curing conditions.
The paint was not mixed properly so the pigment was left on the bottom of the can.
Once opened air containing moisture gets into the can and reacts with the coating and creating gas. Best to cap cans with Nitrogen when opened.
IPA can be used after the paint is fully cured.
Aliphatic type polyurethanes are best for exterior (A-Line, V-Line). Aromatic types are not recommended for exterior use (Z-Line) unless noted on the data sheet. There are special Z-lone products that have additives to extend exposure to light.
Contact distributor for pricing.
We only have the information supplied on our data sheet. Customer would need to test for themselves if they can’t find the information online.
-250°F to +250°F as supplied by NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center.
Z307 contains more carbon black to allow for conductivity.